Deer Resistant Perennials

Gardens in the Northeast are increasingly becoming “fast food” for deer.  In a drought situation, the deer especially appreciate our efforts to keep our gardens watered.  Flower buds are a deer delicacy not to be passed up!  There are no plants that are completely deer proof, however there are several things you can do to keep deer away from your garden.  Commercial repellent sprays can be used, but they are not completely effective.  The sprays need to be re-applied after every rainfall.  If you have a wet spring, this could mean a lot of spraying.  Human hair (available at your nearest hair salon) spread in among your plants, repels deer for awhile.  “Soap-on-a-rope:, strategically hung in various spots in your garden, is also somewhat effective.  Continually changing the scents in your garden by alternating these methods is very effective.  Once something becomes familiar to deer, they are no longer afraid.  The only way to keep deer away is to use plants they do not like.  Deer seem to avoid leaves which are aromatic, leathery or very hairy.  Below is a list of plants not so tasty to deer.

Achillea

Aconitum

Adenophora

Ageratum (annual)

Ajuga

Alchemilla

Allium (bulb)

Aurinia

Amsonia

Anaphalis

Anchusa

Aquilegia

Arabis

Arenaria

Artemisia

Aruncus

Aster

Astilbe

Astrantia

Baptisia

Belamcanda

Bergenia

Bignonia (vine)

Boltonia

Brunnera

Calendula (annual)

Caltha

Campanula

Campsis (vine)

Caryopteris

Cassia

Centaurea

Cerastium

Chelone
Chionodoxa (bulb)
Chrysogonum
Chrysopsis
Cimicifuga
Clematic (vine)
Colchicum (bulb)
Convallaria
Coreopsis
Crambe
Crocosmia (cover buds)
Crocus (bulb)
Cyclamen (bulb)
Dianthus
Digitalis
Doronicum
Echinacea
Epimedium
Eranthus (bulb)
Erica
Eryngium
Eupatorium
Filipendula
Gaillardia
Gaultheria
Geranium
Geum
Gladiolus (bulb; cover buds)
Gypsophila
Helenium
Helianthus
Helleborus
Heuchera
Hibiscus (cover buds)

Iberis
Incarvillea
Iris
Kirengeshoma
Lamium
Lavandula
Ligularia
Lilium (cover buds)
Liriope
Lonicera (vine)
Lychnis
Lysimachia
Monarda
Myosotis
Nepeta
Omphalodes
Ophiopogon
Pachysandra
Paeonia
Papaver
Parthenocissus (vine)
Penstemon
Perovskia
Physostegia
Platycodon
Podophyllum
Polygonatum (vine)
Primula
Pulmonaria
Pycnanthemum
Pyrethrum

Rodgersia
Rosemary
Rudbeckia
Rue
Salvia
Sanguinaria
Sanguisorba
Santolina
Sarcococca
Saxifraga
Sedum (groundcover types)
Sempervivum
Silene
Sisyrinthium
Smilacina
Snow Drop (bulb)
Solidage
Solidaster
Stokesia
Stachys
Symphtyum
Teucrium
Thalictrum
Thermopsis
Thymus
Tiarella
Tricyrtis
Trollius
Verbascum
Vernonia
Veronica
Vinca
Waldsteinia
Wisteria (vine)
Yucca

Ornamental Peppers

This annual ornamental pepper is usually available from late summer into fall and provides traditional color during the fall season.

The cone-shaped miniature peppers change color as they ripen.  Yellow, red and purple 1-inch fruits are sometimes found on the plant.  the fruits are not edible -- but very hot!   The peppers should remain attractive for 2 to 3 months with care.  Some direct sunlight is essential, and the soil must never be allowed to dry out.  White flowers precede the fruit.  Remove shriveled peppers to keep plant looking its best.

TEMPERATURE - Cool or average warmth; not less than 55°F.

LIGHT - Bright lit spot with morning or afternoon sun.

WATER - Keep soil moist at all times.

AIR HUMIDITY - Mist the leaves frequently.  Hot dry air will cause fruits to fall.

FERTILIZER - Feed monthly with mild liquid fertilizer.  Cease when fruit appears.

POTTING - Use standard potting mix.

PROBLEMS - Attacks of aphid and red spider mite are a possibility; also white flies.  Treat with horticulture oil or soap.

Growing Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are lovely, semi-hardy perennials that bring color to the late summer garden.  Here are a few tips to help insure growing  success.  Plant early to establish good roots.  Plant garden mums in a spot where they get full sun, in peat moss, perlite, or organic matter (humus, leaf mold, manures will help to loosen it.)

Plant mums 24 inches apart or more.  You will be surprised at how much growth they put on 

the second year.  Keep moist throughout the fall so they do not suffer stress and can get well 

established before winter arrives.

At the holidays, cut the branches off your Christmas tree with you are done with it.  Lay them across the mums about two layers thick.  If you don’t have a tree, many tree lots will give you trees after the holidays free of charge.  A layer of straw can be used if it is not applied too 

heavily.  The idea is to keep the mums at an even, cold temperature.  Cold doesn’t usually kill mums, heaving from the frost does.  Leave your mums covered until mid March, or about when the crocus bloom.

In the spring after uncovering, trim back dead stems to the ground and feed the plants with a 

5-10-10 formula fertilizer.

To keep the small, compact bushy shape that typifies your mums the first year, cut them back

to a height of 8 inches until mid-July.  They grow quickly and you may have to cut them back 

several times through the season.  After mid-July, let the stems grow and form flower buds.  Without the “haircuts” your mums will still bloom.  They will be taller and may need support 

when in flower.

Mum plants can be divided every other year.  To divide, wait until early spring, dig up the clump and cut into sections.  Make each section at least 6x6 inches to be sure you have a good 

number of rooted stems.

Fall Vegetables Are Here!

Fall Vegetables

It's hard to imagine, but it is time to plan for the fall garden!  Extend your harvest season with cool weather favorites including cabbage, broccoli, brussels sprouts, kale and cauliflower.

Need some growing help?  Our experts are ready with answers to all your gardening questions.