Peppers are members of the Solanaceae family and were introduced to the world when Columbus brought them back to Europe from native Indian gardens in the Caribbean. Peppers may be sweet or hot. Most gardeners grow sweet green or bell peppers and many do not realize that immature green or purple peppers will mature to red, yellow and gold! If left to ripen longer, gardeners will discover not only this dramatic color change, but a dramatic change in taste from sour or bitter to sweet and mild as well. Hot or chili peppers are a diverse group. There are many types of chilies and they vary widely in their ‘hotness.’ Purchase and label hot varieties in your garden well to avoid surprises to your taste buds later! In general hot peppers need higher temperatures than sweet peppers to produce a good crop, and often require a longer growing season.
GROWING: Peppers grow best in light, organic, well-drained soil that is not overly rich and has a pH of 6-7. They should be planted in full sun in soil where tomatoes, eggplant or other peppers have not been planted within the previous two years (prevents soil bourne diseases). Peppers may be started from seeds or set out as starter plants after the frost-free date (May 15th in Zone 6). Seeds should be started early to mid-March in our area, for they need 8-10 weeks to grow into a good sized transplant. When transplanting pepper plants, place them 18-24” apart in rows spaced 2-3 feet apart. Peppers need warm soil and warm nigh time temperatures of at least 55°F, so it doesn’t pay to set them out too early in the season for they won’ grow and may turn yellow and be permanently stunted. Maintain even soil moisture for your plants throughout the season to avoid blossom-end rot and other problems. Mulch, but not until the soil is thoroughly warmed! When the first blossoms appear, give plants a light application of fertilizer. Water it in well. Too much nitrogen will produce lush growth and few peppers, but an application of fish emulsion or compost tea (water through which decayed organic matter has settled) when the plants are in flower is beneficial. Magnesium is critical. For magnesium-poor soil, scatter one teaspoon epsom salts around the base of each plant.
HARVESTING: Sweet peppers can be harvested at any time after they reach full size, whether green, red or “breaking” (part green and part red). As noted, flavor changes as peppers mature. Immature green peppers have a crunchy, mildly tangy flavor. Mature peppers are much sweeter and have more vitamins, but also have a short shelf life. In areas with long growing seasons, a gardener can allow peppers to ripen fully before harvest and still expect a second crop. Where the growing season is short, gardeners may only be able to harvest one crop of fully matured peppers. Hot peppers get “hotter” as fruit matures, for the heat in these fruits comes from developing seeds. Once seeds have formed, most hot peppers achieve their full quota of fiery flavor.
When harvesting any pepper, cut the fruit from the plant using a sharp knife or pruning shears. Be sure to leave a small part of the stem attached to each fruit.
To prepare sweet or bell peppers, remove the stem, pith and seeds. Slice and chop to use fresh, or freeze some for later use. When preparing hot chili peppers for use, protect your skin with rubber gloves and don’t get oils from chilies in your eyes. Remove stems, seeds and pith under running water. To peel, blister chili peppers under a broiler, then allow them to steam and cool inside a brown paper bag that is twisted close. Peel, then dice chilies and store in vinegar for future use in cooking, salads and salsas.
All peppers can be dried for winter use. Dry in a microwave or on drying racks or air dry and string until needed. Cut sweet or bell peppers into 3/8 inch wide slices for drying. Dry chilies whole.
PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS:
~ Sunscald: Whitish, sunken patches on fruit. Plant more closely, keep watered, grow varieties with lush foliage, avoid over pruning.
~ Blossom Drop: Avoid nighttime temperatures below 55°F. Extended rainy or cool periods, or excessive daytime heat causes temporary blossom drop that will correct itself when weather returns to normal.
~ Blossom End Rot: Black, dry or sunken patches on fruit. Maintain even soil moisture with mulch and regular watering, avoid soil calcium deficiency with lime as needed, avoid high nitrogen fertilizer, improve soil drainage with organic matter.
~ Fruit or Foliage Deformities: Avoid damage from herbicides applied nearby.
~ Wilting: Avoid soil that is too dry or water logged.
~ Holes in Ripening Fruit: Protect plants from birds, insects or rodents.
No comments:
Post a Comment